Sewing machine mechanism



Aug. 10,1937. HAND 2,089,551

SEWING MACHINE MECHANISM Filed Nov; 10, 1954 7 Sheets-Sheet 1 Ea b *5 INV EN TOR.

B W i ATTORNEY.

Aug. 10,1937. J. F. HAND SEWING MACHINE MECHANISM Filed Nov. 10, 1954 7Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR.

0/222 ZT'Hand ATT RNEY.

Aug. 10, 1937. \J. F. HAND SEWING MACHINE MECHANISM Filed NOV. 10, 19347 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR. rm Zfimd,

ATTO EY.

\Q M m 7 Sheets-Sheet 4 J. F. HAND SEWING MACHINE MECHANISM Filed Nov.10, 1954 Aug. 10, 1937.

IN V EN TOR.

MN wk w rib/1,21 1'7 Hamel, 'BY

EBIIIIIII! g a Aug.,10, 1937. HAND 2,089,551

' SEWING MQCHINE MECHANISM Filed Nov. 10, 1934 7 Sheets-Sheet 5 Aug. 10,1937. J. F. HAND I SEWING MACHINE MECHANISM 7 Sheets-Sheet 6 Eiled Nov.10, 1934 Aug. 10, 1937. J. F. HAND SEWING MACHINE MECHANISM Filed Nov.10, 1934 7 Sheets-Sheet 7 INVENTOR Z Hand A TTORNE Y Patented Aug. 10,1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SEWING MACHINE MECHANIS M ApplicationNovember 10,1934, Serial No. 752,441

. 22 Claims.

The invention relates to sewing machine mechanism and involves variousimprovements for the purpose of adapting such mechanism for sewing reyelet tape' or the like to strips or pieces of fabric.

The invention has for one of its principal objects the provision of apocket for the eyelets, formed between the eyelet tape and the goods towhich the tape is secured and having one side 10 thereof open in orderto give access to the eyelets. This object is accomplished by theprovision of mechanism for stitching the eyelet tape to the goodslengthwise of the tape and in line with the eyelets, and deflecting theline of stitching inwardly from one edge of the tape around each of theeyelets as they are successively reached in the stitching operation.

The invention has for a further object the provision of improvedmechanism for deflecting 20 the line of stitching around the eyeletsduring the process of securing the eyelet tape to a strip of fabric.This object is accomplished by eniploying a reciprocating needle barmounted for swinging movement transversely of the direction 25 of feedof the goods, and by providing improved mechanism for swinging theneedle bar, the operation of which is initiated by means of a feelerdevice arranged to be actuated by engagement with the successiveeyelets. i

A further object of the invention is the provision of mechanism forvarying the speed of the work feeding device during the formation of theeyelet pockets. This object is accomplished by the provision of speedvarying mechanism the 35 operation of which isinitiated likewise by theengagement of a feeler device with the eyelets as the successive eyeletsapproach the stitch forming mechanism.

Another object of the invention is the provi- 40 sion of improvedmechanism for transmitting power from the main drive shaft of the sewingmachine to the actuating mechanism for the speed varying device and theneedle-bar swinging device.

A still further object of the invention is the provision of improvedmechanism for varying the speed of the work feeding device associatedwith the stitch forming mechanism of a sewing machine.

50 A further object of the invention is the provision of an improvedfeeler device for cooperation with the successive eyelets of eyelet tapein order to initiate the actuation of the speed N changing mechanism ofthe work feeding device and the actuation of the needle bar swingingmechanism as the successive eyelets approach the stitch formingmechanism.

A further object of the invention is the provision of an improved feeleror tripping device which is so constructed that it will operate byengagement with the eyelets and will not be operated by engagement withan increased thickness of the goods, such as a seam.

A still further object of the invention is the provision of an improvedstructure for feeding the work so as to enable the entire length of thestrip of eyelet tape or the like and of the fabric to be stitchedtogether. This object is accomplished by the provision of a work feedstructure wherein the work is advanced past the stitch forming mechanismby means of a carrier tape acting in cooperation with a pair of feedrolls positioned in the rear of the stitch forming mechanism.

Still further objects and advantages of the various features of theinvention will be apparent from the following description, taken withthe accompanying drawings wherein:

Fig. l is a perspective view of a sewing machine mechanism with thepresent improvements incorporated therein;

Fig. 2 is a front elevational view thereof, with parts omitted or brokenaway;

Fig. 3 is an elevational view of the end of the machine with which thestitch forming mechanism is associated;

Fig. 4 is a horizontal, longitudinal, sectional view of the machinetaken on the line 6-4 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 is a longitudinal, sectional view taken on the line 55 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a vertical, sectional view taken on the line 6-6 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 7 is a vertical, sectional view taken on the line i-l of Fig. 5; t

Fig. 8 is an enlarged, sectional view taken on the line 8-8 of Fig. 4,and showing details of the transmission mechanism between the main driveshaft and the cam shaft for controlling the speed of the work feedingdevice and the swinging action of the needle bar;

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 8, showing the parts in a diflerentposition;

Fig. 10 is a plan view, partly in section, of the transmission mechanismshown in Fig. 8;

Fig. 11 is a sectional view taken on the line 40 in a swinging arm Fig.13 is a transverse, sectional view taken on the line l3-l3 of Fig. 4,and showing one position of the adjustable eccentric forming part of thework feeding mechanism;

Fig. 14 is a view similar to Fig. 13 showing another position of theadjustable eccentric;

Fig. 15 is a detailed, elevational view showing the contour of the camemployed for swinging the needle bar:

Fig. 16 is a detailed, elevational view showing the contour of the camemployed for controlling the speed of the work feeding mechanism;

Fig. 1'! is an enlarged, transverse, sectional view taken on the linei1i1 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 18 is a transverse, sectional view taken on the line ll-IB of Fig.1'7;

Fig. 19 is a transverse, sectional view taken on the line i8-l3 of Fig.17;

Fig. 20 is an enlarged, plan view showing a section-of a strip of eyelettape stitched to a strip oi fabric by the improved mechanism disclosedherein;

Fig. 21 is a transverse, sectional view of the same; and

Fig. 22 is a transverse, sectional view similar to Fig. 21 but showingthe strip of fabric folded upon and stitched to itself and to the eyelettape in position to be attached to a piece of fabric material.

e various features of the present invention, as i fiustrated in thedrawings, are incorporated in a sewing machine having the usual bedplate I and bracket arm 2 supported thereon, the bracket arm having ahead 3 on the free end thereof within which the reciprocating needle bar4 is mounted, the needle 5 being secured within the lower end of theneedle bar. In the machine disclosed herein, the needle bar 4 is mountedto reciprocate longitudinally in guideways 6 formed 1 pivoted at itsupper end to the head 3, as shown at 8, and provided with a pin and slotstructure 9 near the lower end thereof for guiding the arm in itsswinging movement with respect to the head.

The main drive shaft it extends through the horizontal portion of thebracket'arm 2 and is mounted for rotation in suitable bearings in thebracket arm. The drive shaft it is rotated by means of a belt ll passingover a pulley I2 50 secured on the outwardly projecting end of theshaft, the belt being driven from any suitable source of power, such asan electric motor. The end of the drive shaft adjacent the head 3 of thebracket arm may be provided with any well known means, such as a pitmanstructure l3, for imparting reciprocatory movement to the needle bar 6.

Extending longitudinally beneath the bed plate 1 and supported insuitable bearings I4 on the 60 bed plate is a shaft i5 having a pulleyi6 secured on one end thereof and driven by a belt l1 passing around apulley l8 secured on the main drive shaft. The opposite end of the shaftl5 terminates beneath the head 3 and is provided with 65 a bevel gear l8which meshes with a bevel gear 20 secured on a stub shaft 2| supportedin a bearing member 22 on the bed plate. Secured on the free end of thestub shaft 2! is a rotary hook or looping device 23 of usual structurefor cooperation with the needle 5 to provide stitch 75 25 having a feedroll 26 secured thereon in cooperative relation to a pressure roll 21supported above the feed roll for movement toward and away from thelatter. As illustrated herein, the pressure roll 21 is supported in abracket 28 carried upon the lower end of a rod 23 supported for verticalmovement in a bracket 30 mounted upon the head 3 and extendingrearwardly thereof. The rod 29 is pressed downwardly by means of acoiled spring 3i surrounding the same and having the lower end inengagement with a collar 32 secured to the rod and the upper end inengagement with the lower end of a hollow adjusting screw 83 throughwhich the rod extends. A manipulating handle 34 of well known form maybe pivoted to the supporting bracket 30 for lifting the pressure roll 21out of engagement with the feed roll 26. this handle being provided witha flattened portion 35 for engagement beneath a projection 36 on thecollar 32 in order to hold the pressure roll in its raised position.

The extended end of the feed shaft 25 may be provided with a milled knob31 for manual rotation of the shaft at any time desired. The feed shaftis preferably provided with a brake structure 38 having a manuallyadjustable braking action and operating continuously in order that thestep-by-step rotation of the shaft may be properly controlled.Step-by-step motion is imparted to the feed shaft by means of a ratchetwheel 39 secured thereon for cooperation with a pawl 46.

As shown in Figs. 3, 4 and 6, the pawl 50 is pivoted to the outer end ofthe arm 4! of a twoarmed lever 42 loosely mounted on the feed shaft 25,and this arm has secured thereto a flat spring 43 a portionof whichengages with the pawl for the purpose of keeping the pawl in contactwith the ratchet wheel 39. From the free end of the other arm 44 of thetwo-armed lever 42 a link 45 extends to the free end of a crank arm 46adjustably secured on a rock shaft 41 extending longitudinally beneaththe bed plate I and suitably supported in bearings 48 projectingtherefrom. The rock shaft 41 receives its rocking movement through acrank arm 49 adjustably secured thereon and having its free endpivotally connected to the lower end of an eccentric rod 50 the upperend of which is provided with an eccentric strap 5| surrounding aneccentric 52 adjustably secured to one face of the pulley l8 on the maindrive shaft l0.

Referring to Figs. 4, 5, 13 and 14, it will be noted that the eccentric52 has an enlarged opening 53 therethrough for receiving the shaft I0,

and is provided with an enlarged hub having a pair of diametricallyarranged ears 54, 55 thereon. The car 54 is pivoted upon the adjacentface of the pulley l8 by means of a screw 56 passing freely through theear and threaded into an opening in the pulley. The ear 55 is providedwith anelongated slot 51 for loosely receiving a screw 58 which isthreaded in a suitable opening in the adjacent face of the pulley l8.This pin and slot arrangement serves as a guide for the ear 55 therebypermitting the eccentric to swing upon the screw 56 into differentpositions of eccentricity with respect to shaft I0.

Arranged substantially at right angles to the cars 54, 55 and extendingoutwardly from the hub of the eccentric 52 is a pair of hollowprojections 59, 60. Hollow projection 59 is threaded for the receptionof a screw 6| having a pin 62 extending from the inner end thereofthroughan opening 63 in the wall of the drive shaft I0 and communicatingwith a bore 64 extending inwardly from the end of the drive shaft ID asshown in Fig. 4. drain I! having its inner end in engagement with thedrive shaft II is slidably mounted in the hollow projection 60, and is 5pressed inwardly and retained in contact with the drive shaft by meme! acoiled spring 88 the tension of which may be adjusted by means of ascrew 81 threaded in the outer end of the projection 68.

10 The eccentric t2 is'automatically adjusted into different positionsof eccentricity with aspect to the drive shaft It by means of a bolt 8extending into the bore 36 in the end of the drive shaft and having itsinner end as tapered for col5 operation with the inner end of the pin82. With such a structure it will be .fllmarent that movement of thebolt to lnwardlywithin the bore of the drive shaft will bring thetapered inner end thereof into engagement with the pin 62 and thus swingthe eccentric against the tension of the spring Bt and about the screw53 so that the eccentric may be adjusted into various positions toincrease its eccentricity with respect to the drive shaft. It will alsobe apparent that when bolt 38 is moved outwardly in the bore as spring66 will operate to shift the eccentric in the opposite direction tothereby decrease the eccentricity from maximum as shown in Fig. 13 tominimum or zero eccentricity as shown inFig. i i.

As shown in Figs. 4, 5 and 12, the outer end of the eccentric adjustingbolt 59 is, threaded in a frame "it which is mounted for reciprocatingmovement in a guideway ii secured bid the rear of the bracket arm 2. Theinner end of the frame I0 is provided with an offset portion ll? havinga cam roller 73 thereon for cooperation with a cam it for varying thefeed of the work and hereinafter referred to as the feed cam. The rollerIt is k p in ngagement withthe feed cam by means 40 of a coiled springIt one end of which is secured to a pin it fixed to the frame it and theopposite end of which is secured to a pin l'l fixed to the guideway ii.

The feed cam It is secured on the rear end of a cam shaft it extendingfrom front to rear through the bracket arm 2- and provided with a milledknob id for ef'fectingmanual adjustment 7 thereof and of the camscarried thereby. In order to control the rotation of the cam shaft Id,at

braking device it may be provided therefor in the rear of the bracketarm 2. A cam 8B for swinging the needle bar d, and hereinafter referredto as the needle cam, is secured on the cam shaft it in front of thebracket arm 2. The needle cam so cooperates with a cam roller 8! on theend of a cam rod 62 having a slot 88 therein for engagement with the camshaft I8 to guide the cam rod in its reciprocating movement. Cam

roller ai is kept in engagement with the needle so cam 89 by means of acoiledcpring as one end of which is secured to a pin 85 fixed to cam rod82 and the opposite end of which is fixed to a pin es suitably supportedupon the bracket arm 2. The end of the cam rod 82 opposite the camroller 8| is pivoted to the lower end of the swinging arm I upon whichthe needle bar 4 is mounted. It will be apparent, therefore, thatrotation of needle cam 80 will operate to swing the arm I about itspivot B and thereby oscillate or swing the needle 5 transversely of thedirection in which the needle reciprocates during the stitch formingoperation.

In the form in which the invention is disclosed herein, both the feedcam 1.4 and the needle cam are stationary when the machine is operatingto form a straight line of stitches in the direction of feed of thegoods. In order to discontinue the operation of the feed mechanism orvary the rate of feed of the goods, and in order to provide a swingingmovement of the needle bar 4 when an eyelet or the like approaches theneedle 8, a novel form of mechanism has been provided for rotating thecam shaft 18 step by step, this operation being initiated by engagementof the eyelets with a part of the mechanism.

Referring to Figs. 5 6. 8, 9 and 10, it will be noted that a ratchetwheel 87 is secured on the cam shaft I8 beneath the drive shaft Ill, anda pawl 88 having its free end arranged for cooperation with the teeth ofthe ratchet'wheel 8'! has its opposite end pivoted to the arm 89 of atwoarmed lever 90 loosely supported on the cam shaft 18. A coiled spring9| having one end secured to a pin 92 fixed to the pawl 88 and theopposite end secured to the two-armed lever 90 serves to pull the freeend of the pawl 88 toward the ratchet wheel. The other arm 98 ofthelever at projects upwardly and is provided with a cam roller 9 whichengages with a cam slot formed in a cam cylinder 96 secured on the driveshaft I t and rotating continuously therewith.

Inasmuch as the pawl $8 is continuously reciprocated during theoperation of the machine,

' means have been provided for keeping it out of engagement with theratchet wheel at except at such times as the speed varying mechanism isto be actuated and the needle bar is to be oscillated transversely ofthe direction of its reciprocating movement. The pawl 88 is normallyretained in inoperative relation with respect to the ratchet wheel illby means of a' detent 91 pivoted on the ratchet wheel as shown at 88. Acoiled spring 99 having one end secured to the detent 97 and itsopposite end secured to a pin I00 fixed to the ratchet wheel 81 operatesto move the edge IIlI of the detent into the position shown in Fig. 8wherein the pawl 83 slides back and forth upon the edge It! andtherefore does not-operate to rotate cam shaft I8 during itsreciprocating movement.

In order that the detent 9? may be moved into a position to permit pawl88 to engage with the teeth of the ratchet wheel 87, 9. lug I02 isprovided on the upper end of a trip rod I 03 having a longitudinal slotI84 therein for engagement about cam shaft 16 to guide the rod in itsverti cal movements. The lug IE2 is arranged to engage with a pin I05projecting outwardly from one face of the detent 91 as will be clearfrom Figs. 6 and 11. The lower end of trip rod I93 is,

pivoted to one end of a trip lever I06 the opposite end of which isadjustably secured on a rock shaft llli by means of a set-screw I08. Thetrip rod I03, together with the trip lever "18,18 held in its uppermostposition by means of a coiled spring I09 having its lower end secured tothe trip lever and its upper end secured to a fixed pin H0. Movement ofthe trip lever I05 upwardly is limited by means of an adjustable screwIII threaded through the'free end of a bracket H2 secured to the bedplate I.

The rock shaft IIlI is mounted transversely of the bed plate I alongsidethe stitch forming mechanism and'is supported in suitable bearings H3secured to and projecting upwardly from the bed plate. Adjustablysecured on the rock shaft I01, as by a set screw I I4 and. milled nutsH5 threaded on the rock shaft, is a feeler arm H8 the outer end of whichis so positioned as to constitute a feeler III for engagement by eyeletsor the like as they approach the stitch forming mechanism during theoperation of the machine. Preferably, the arm H6 is so constructed thatthe feeler may be adjusted to and from the rock shaft I01 as shown atH8.

The feeler H1 is spring pressed toward the work by means of a tensioningmember comprising a lever arm I I 9 adjustably secured to the rock shaftI01 by a set screw I20 and projecting from the rock shaft in a directionopposite to the feeler arm H6. The free end of the lever arm H9 isprovided with a boss 'I2I having a vertical opening therethrough withinwhich the upper end of a pin I22 is slidably received. A coiled springI23 surrounds the pin I22 between the boss I2I and the head of the pin.It will be apparent that by loosening the set screw I20 the lever arm II9 may be adjusted radially about the rock shaft I01 to thereby vary thetension in the coiled spring I23 and consequently vary the pressure ofthe feeler II1 upon the. goods. This structure provides a simple meansfor adjusting the position of the feeler with respect to the goods, sothat the tripping device will be'operated by engagement of the feelerwith the successive eyelets or the like and'will not be operated by itsengagement with an unusual thickness of the fabric material, such asseams.

The feeler II1 is so arranged as to project downwardly into a slotformed by the opposing edges of a retainer plate I24 and a movable guidebar I25, as illustrated in Figs; 1, 4, 5 and 19. The retainer plate I24has one edge thereof projecting outwardly beyond a spacer member I20 towhich the opposite edge of the plate is secured. The inner edge of themovable guide bar I215 is cut away to provide a shoulder I21 which formsa guide for one edge of the eyelet tape T, and to provide an overhangingportion I28 for retaining the eyelet tape T in position as it movesinwardly with the material M toward the stitch forming mechanism. Asshown in Figs. 18 and 19, the spacer I 28 forms a guide for the oppositeedge of the, eyelet tape and the adjacent edge of the material to whichthe tape is being secured.

The guide bar I is provided with a pair of spaced ears I29 one of whichis secured to the free end of an arm I30 pivoted to a bearing member I3Isecured to and extending upwardly from the retainer plate I24, the otherbeing secured to one end of a lever I32 pivoted to a bearing member I33projecting upwardly from the retainer plate. The opposite end of leverI32 is bent into a position outwardly of the forward edge of the bedplate I, and by means of a chain I34 or the like may be connected 'to apedal so that the guide bar may be lifted out of contact with the work.A spring I35 with one end secured to the bed plate I may be so bent asto have its opposite end engage with the lever I32 for the purpose ofholding the guide bar I25 in contact with the work.

Referring to Figs. 3, 5 and 1'7, it will be noted that the bed plate Iis cut away adjacent the stitch forming mechanism, and the opening thusformed is provided with an insert I36 having an elongated slot I31therein to receive the needle 5 and permit the same to swing later-allyfor the purpose of stitching around the eyelets U. The

needle slot I31 registers with a similar slot in a wear plate I38secured to the upper face of the bedplate. The insert I36 and the wearplate I38 are also provided with registering slots slightly in advanceof the needle slot in order to form an outlet I38 for a carrier tape Wutilized in feeding, the work in the present mechanism. The

carrier tape W passes rearwardly from the front edge of the bed plate Ithrough a. channel I formed on the upper face of the bed plate andcovered by the wear plate I38. When the carrier tape W emerges from theopening I33 it comes into engagement with the fabric material M to whichthe eyelet tape T is being secured, and after being secured together bythe stitch forming mechanism the eyelet tape, the fabric material andthe carrier tape are advanced as a unit by the work feed deviceheretofore described.

In machines of this general character the work feed device isconveniently arranged at the rear of the bed plate I, in line with thestitch forming mechanism. The use of a carrier tape in the mannerdisclosed herein provides a simple means for feeding the goods throughthe machine and is particularly useful in providing a feed for theinitial portion of the goods as they approach the stitch formingmechanism and move from the stitch forming mechanism to the feed device.Such a carrier tape is also advantageous by reason of the fact that thegoods or pieces of material to which the eyelet tape is secured areusually of limited length so that the carrier tape provides a meanswhereby the goods may be continuously fed past the stitch formingmechanism notwithstanding the short lengths of material which areutilized.

As the invention is illustrated herein, the parts thereof are sodesigned and are so timed with respect to each other as to form a lineof stitching S lengthwise of the eyelet tape T, with three tie-stitchesa, b, 0 connecting the line of stitching S with the stitches d, e, j, g,h, i deflected around the eyelets U and connected, in turn, to the lineof stitching S by the three tie-stitches 1, k, I. In order to form thisseries of stitches the needle cam 00 is so designed as to provideoperating portions a to l as shown in Fig. 15 of the drawings, theseportions corresponding respectively to stitches a to 1 shown in Fig. 20.

The needle cam 88 is illustrated in Figs. 1, 2 and 15 of the drawings ina position in which the cam roller 8i occupies a low point thereon, andthe needle bar 4 is thus in a position wherein it reciprocatesvertically without being subjected to a simultaneous swinging movement.When an eyelet U comes into engagement with the feeler II1 of the tripmechanism to thereby move the detent 91 into a position wherein the pawl88 may cooperate with the teeth of the ratchet wheel 81, the cam shaft18 is rotated step by step through a complete cycle of its operation byreason of the continuous reciprocatory movement of the pawl 88. It willbe noted that the ratchet wheel 01 is provided with twelve teeth, thenumber thus employed to complete its operative cycle corresponding withthe number of stitches employed in stitching around each eyelet, andwith the number of portions into which the operating face of the needlecam is divided.

The first movement of the nedle cam 80 from the position shown in Fig.15, and in the direction of the arrow shown therein, operates to movethe cam roller 8I up the inclined portion a. to thereby swing the needlebar to the right (referring to Fig. 2) to produce the tie-stitch 0..During the next movement of the cam 80 the cam roller 8| rides inwardlyon the inclined portion 1)" during which time the tie-stitch b isformed. During the next movement of the cam 80 the cam roller 8I ridesupwardly on the insucceeding movement of cam 80 cam roller 8| ridesupwardly along the inclined face d, thereby swinging the needle barstill further to the right to produce the stitch d. In the nextsucceeding movement of cam 80 cam roller 8| continues upwardly on theinclined face e and the needle bar is swung still further to the rightto produce the stitch e. During the next two succeeding movements of cam80 cam roller 8| traverses the portions 1, g of cam 86 and, inasmuch asthese portions are arranged to eflect no cam action, the two stitches f,a will be formed parallel to the line of stitching 8. During the nextmovement of cam 8d cam roller 8| rides inwardly along the inclinedportion h thereby permitting the needle bar to'swing to the left andproduce the stitch h. In the next movement of cam Bil cam roller 8!rides still further inwardly on the portion i to produce the stitch i.In the next succeeding movement of cam 89 cam roller 8| rides inwardlyalong the abruptly inclined portion 9" to produce the tie-stitch i. Inthe next movement oi cam 88 cam roller 8i rides upwardly upon theinclined portion is to again move the needle bar to the right andproduce the tie-stitch is. In the final movement of the cam the camroller rides inwardly along the inclined portion 1' to produce thetie-stitch Z connecting with the line of stitching S and completing onecycle of operation of the needle cam.

In order that the feed of the work may be controlled to enable thevarious stitches to be formed, the surface of the feed cam it islikewise designed to provide portions a" to l" correspondingrespectively to the stitches a to Z and to the portions 11' to Z oi'theneedle cam 80. As illustrated in Figs. 4, 12 and 16 of the drawings, thefeed cam M is in a position in 40 which the adjusting bolt 65 is in itsextreme inward position to thereby provide maximum eccentricity of theeccentric 52 as shown in Fig. 13. As will be apparent, whenthe feed camis in this position the feed device will operate in a 45 normal way tomove the goods past the stitch forming mechanism at a uniform. rate.

When an eyelet is advanced into engagement with the feeler i ii tothereby operate the tripping mechanism and initiate the rotation of the59 cam shaft is, the first movement of the feed cam 15 in the directionoi? the arrow as shown in Fig. 16 permits the cam roller E3 to ride downalong the inclined portion a" and this movement of the cam roller '73permits the eccentric ad- 55 justing bolt 58 to move outwardly under theinfluence of coiled spring 15 to thereby adjust the eccentric 52 intothe position shown in Fig. 14, and thereby discontinue the feed of thework. During the next two consecutive movements of 60 cam 'i-i camroller '33 traverses the portions b" and c" of cam it, during which timethe feed device remains inoperative. In the next movement of cam is camroller 13 rides upwardly on the inclined portion d" thereby adjustingthe eccen- 65 tric 52 into a position to operate the feed device 7 tionas to continue the operation of the feed device and advance the goodsduring the formation oi the stitches e to i. In the next threesucceeding movements of cam it cam roller 13 traverses the low portions9", is", Z" to thereby discontinue the operation of the feed deviceduring the formation of the tie-stitches i, It, I. This completes thecycle or operation or the feed cam 14 and returns the cam roller 73 tothe position shown in Fig. 16 wherein normal operation of the feeddevice takes place for the continued formation of the line of stitching8 until the trip mechanism is again actuated by an eyelet U to initiatethe rotation of the cam shaft 10.

with the improvements disclosed herein, it will be apparent that themechanism operates automatically to deflect the line 01' stitchingaround the successive eyelets as they reach the stitch formingmechanism. Inasmuch as the swinging movement of the needle bar and thevariation in the feed of the work are controlled by the engagement of apart (if the trip mechanism with the particular eyelet adjacent thestitch forming mechanism, the tie stitches and the stitches deflectedaround the eyelets areproperly formed notwithstanding irregularities inthe spacing of the eyelets. The improvements have been disclosed hereinin connection with mechanism adapted particularly for securing eyelettape to strips of fabric and the like. It will be apparent, however,that the novel features are equally adaptable for deflecting a line ofstitching around other forms of fastener elements such as hooks andeyes.

It will also be apparent that the invention may be employed in securingfastener tape to a strip of fabric without the formation of pockets ofthe precise type illustrated in Figs. 20, 21 and 22. It will likewise beunderstood that the improved mechanism disclosed herein may be readilyadapted to stitch around eyelets or the like without employing theprecise form of stitches which have been disclosed. With the form andarrangement of the various elements illustrated herein, it will bereadily apparent to those skilled in the art that other forms andarrangements.

of the tie stitches and deflected stitches may be provided by suitablychanging the contour oi the needle cam and the feed cam, by theprovision of the required number of teeth upon the ratchet wheel Bl, andby properly timing these.

and other elements of the mechanism. It will also be apparent thatvarious features of the improvements are readily adaptable for use incombinations and arrangements other than those specifically shown anddescribed herein, and that various changes may be made in the novelcombinations, as well as in the elements of the combinations, withoutdeparting from the invention which has been made.

The particular features which are believed to be'novel and which areintended to be protected by Letters Patent are set out in the followingclaims:

1. In a sewing machine having feeding means for advancing the work in agiven direction, and stitch forming mechanism including a needle barsupported for reciprocatory movement toward and away from the plane ofmovement of the work and for oscillatory movement transversely or thedirection of reciprocatory movement, the combination of means forcontinuously reciprocating said bar, operating mechanism forsimultaneously rendering said feeding means inoperative and oscillatingsaid needle bar. and means in engagement with the work for initiatingthe actuation of said operating mechanism.

2.-In a sewing machine having feeding means for advancing the work in agiven direction, and stitch forming mechanism including a needle barsupported for reciprocatory movement toward and away from the plane ofmovement of the work and for oscillatory movement transversely of thedirection of reciprocatory movement, the combination of means forcontinuously reciproil cating said bar, operating mechanism forcontrolling said feedingflmeans and for oscillating said needle bar, andyieldable means in engagement with the work for initiating the actuationthe work for. initiating the actuation of said operating mechanism byengagement with the eyelets.

4. In a machine for sewing eyelet tape or the like to a strip of fabricand having feeding means for advancing said tape and said strip, andstitch forming mechanism including a needle bar supported forreciprocatory movement toward and away from the work and for oscillatorymovement transversely of the direction of reciprocatory movement, thecombination of means for continuously reciprocating said bar, operatingmechanism for controlling said feeding means and for oscillating saidbar, and trip means in yielding engagement with the work for'initiatingthe actuation of said operating mechanism by engagement with theeyelets.

5. In a sewing machine having feeding means 40 for advancing the work ina given direction, and

stitch forming mechanism including a needle bar supported forreciprocatory movement toward and away from the plane of movement of thework and for oscillatory movement transversely 45 of the direction ofreciprocatory movement, the

combination of means for continuously reciprocating said bar, operatingmechanism for controlling said feedingmeans and for gradually effectingasingle oscillation of said bar simultaneouslywith 50 aplurality ofreciprocatory movements: thereof,

and means in engagement with the work for initiating the actuation ofsaid operating mechanism.

6. In a sewing machine having feeding means 55 for advancing the work ina given direction, and stitch forming mechanism including a needle barsupported for reciprocatory movement toward and away from the plane ofmovement of the work and for oscillatory movement transversely of thedirection of reciprocatory movement, the

combination of means for continuously reciprocating said bar, operatingmechanism for simultaneously varying the speed of said feeding means andoscillating said needle bar, and means in yielding engagement with thework for initiating the actuation of said operating mechanism. 7. In asewing machine having feeding means for advancing the work in a givendirection, and stitch forming mechanism including a needle bar 7-supported for reciprocatory movement toward and away from the plane ofmovement of the work and for oscillatory movement transversely of thedirection of reciprocatory movement, the combination of means forcontinuously reciproca- 75 ting said bar, operating mechanism forsimultaneously varying the speed of said feeding means and oscillatingsaid needle bar including a cam shaft, a cam on said shaft foroscillating said bar and a cam on said shaft for actuating the speedvarying means, and means in yielding engagement with the work forinitiating the actuation of said operating mechanism.

8. In a sewing machine having feeding means for advancing the work in agiven direction, and stitch forming mechanism including a needle barsupported for reciprocatory movement toward and away from. the plane ofmovement of the work and for oscillatory movement transversely of thedirection of reciprocatory movement, the combination of a continuouslyrotating shaft for reciprocating said bar, a cam shaft, a cam on saidcam shaft for oscillating said bar, a cam on said cam shaft forcontrolling said feeding means, transmission means between said shafts,and means in engagement with the work for rendering said transmissionmeans operative.

9. In a sewingmachine having a work support, feeding means for advancingthe work across said support, and stitch forming mechanism including aneedle bar supported for reciprocatory movement toward and away fromsaid support and for oscillatory movement transversely of the Idirection of reciprocatory movement, the combination of a continuouslyrotating shaft for reciprocating said bar, a cam shaft, a cam on saidcam shaft for oscillating said bar, normally inoperative transmissionmeans between said shafts, and trip mechanism associated with said worksupport and actuated by movement thereof relatively to said support forrendering said transmission means operative to drive said cam shaft.

10. In a sewing machine having a work support, feeding means foradvancing the work across said support, and stitch forming mechanismincluding a needle bar supported for reciprocatory movement toward andaway from said support and for oscillatory movement transversely of thedirection of reciprocatory movement, the combination of a continuouslyrotating shaft for reciprocating said bar, a cam shaft, a cam on saidcam shaft for varying the speed of said feeding means, normallyinoperative transmission means between said slfafts, and trip mechanismassociated with said work support and actuated by movement thereofrelatively to said support for rendering said transmission meansoperative to drive said cam shaft.

11. In a sewing machine having a work support, feeding means foradvancing the work across said support, and stitch forming mechanismincluding a needle bar supported for reciprocatory movement toward andaway from said work support and for oscillatory movement transversely ofthe direction of reciprocatory movement, the combination of acontinuously rotating shaft for reciprocating said bar, a cam shaft, acam on said cam shaft for oscillating said bar, normally inoperativetransmission means between said shafts and including a ratchet wheel onsaid cam shaft, a reciprocating pawl actuated by said continuouslyrotating shaft and a detent for holding said pawl out of engagement withsaid ratchet wheel, and trip mechanism associated with said work supportand actuated by movement away from said support for rendering saiddetent inoperative.

12. In a sewing machine, a continuously rotating shaft, anintermittently rotating cam shaft driven thereby, power transmittingmeans between said shafts including a ratchet wheel fixed on said camshaft and a pawl actuated by said continuously rotating shaft andcooperating with said ratchet wheel to rotate said camshaft, a

5 detent on said ratchet wheel for normally holding said pawl out ofengagement therewith, and trip mechanism actuated by a variation inthickness of the work for rendering said detent inoperative.

i 13. In a sewing machine having feeding means for advancing the work,and stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle bar, thecombination of a continuously rotating shaft for reciprocating said barand actuating said 15 feeding means, a cam shaft driven thereby, a-

speed varying device between said continuously rotating shaft and saidfeeding means, a cam on said cam shaft for automatically controllingsaid speed varying device, transmission means between said shafts, andmeans actuated by a variation in thickness of the work for renderingsaid transmission means operative.

14. In apparatus for advancing the work to sewing machine stitch formingmechanism, the combination of an intermittently operated'feed roll, acontinuously rotating shaft, an eccentric radially adjustable on saidshaft, a cam for effecting adjustment of said eccentric, normallyinoperative transmission means for driving said cam from said shaft,connecting means between said eccentric and said feed roll forintermittently' operating said feed roll, and means actuated byavariation in the thickness of said work for rendering said transmissionmeans operative.

15. In work feeding mechanism for a sewing machine, the combination of afeed roll, a radially adjustable, continuously rotating eccentric,connecting means between said eceentric' and said feed roll forintermittently rotating said feed 40 roll, and means for automaticallyadjusting said eccentric in response to a variation in thickness of saidwork, including a cam, a continuously rotating member, transmissionmeans between said member and said cam, and trip means in 45 yieldingengagement with said work for rendering said transmission meansoperative.

16. In a sewing machine having a needle bar supported for reciprocatorymovement toward and away from the work and for oscillatory move- 50 menttransversely of the direction of reciprocatory movement, the combinationof means for continuously reciprocating said bar, a rotatable cam foroscillating said bar, a ratchet wheel for intermittently rotating saidcam, a reciproeating pawl for actuating said ratchet wheel, means forcontinuously reciprocating said pawl,

a detent for holding said pawl out of engagement with said ratchetwheel, and means actuated by a variation in thickness of the work 60 forrendering said detent inoperative.

17. In a sewing machine having feeding means for intermittentlyadvancing the work in a given direction, and stitch forming mechanismincluding a needle bar .supported for longitudinal re- 5 ciprocatorymovement toward and away from the work and for oscillatory movementtransversely of the direction of reciprocatory movement, the combinationof means for continuously reciproeating said bar, and means foroscillating said 70 bar including a rotatable cam, a reciprocatingmember for rotating said cam, a detent for rendering 'said memberinoperative to rotate said cam, and means contacting with said work andactuated by a variation in thickness of said work for renderingsaiddetent inoperative.

18. In mechanism for oscillating the needle bar of a sewing machinetransversely of the direction of longitudinal reciprocatory movement,the combination of a rotatable cam, a cam rod between said cam and saidbar for oscillating said bar, a ratchet wheel for rotating said cam, apawl for rotating said ratchet wheel, a detent for normally holding saidpawl out of engagement with said ratchet wheel, and means for renderingsaid detent inoperative comprising a trip rod, a lever for actuatingsaid trip rod, and a feeler contacting with the work to actuate saidlever upon a variation in thickness of the work.

19. In a sewing machine having a work support and a needle bar mountedto reciprocate toward and away from said support and to oscillatetransversely of the direction of reciprocation, trip mechanism forinitiating the transverse oscillatory movement of the needle barcomprising a lever pivoted alongside said support, a feeler on saidlever over said support, means for adjusting said feeler toward and awayfrom said support, and resilient means regulated by the adjustment ofsaid feeler for resisting movement of said feeler away from saidsupport.

20. In a sewing machine having a work support, feeding means foradvancing the work across said support, and adjustable means for varyingthe rate of feed of the work, trip mechanism for initiating theoperation of said adjustable means comprising a rock shaft mountedalongside said support, a feeler extending from said rock shaft oversaid support, adjustable means for resiliently resisting movement ofsaid feeler away from said support, and adjustable means for limitingthe movement of said feeler toward said support.

21. In a machine for sewing eyelet tape or the like to successivelengths of fabric, the combination with stitch forming mechanism andwork feeding mechanism of work supporting and guiding means comprising abed plate having thereon an enclosed guide channel for a carrier tapeextending from the front end thereof to a point in. advance of thestitch forming mechanism, the inner end of said channel communicatingwith the upper face of said bed plate, a guide member fixed to said bedplate and extending from front to rear thereof adjacent one edge of saidguide channel, a retainer plate projecting from said guide member oversaid guide channel and spaced from said bed plate, a movable guide baron said bed plate adjacent the opposite edge of said guide channel, anda projection extending from said movable guide member over saidguideway.

22. In a machine for sewing eyelet tape or the I like to successivelengths of fabric, the combination with stitch forming mechanism of worksupporting and feeding mechanism including a bed plate having thereon acovered guide channel for a carrier tape extending from the front endthereof to a point in advance of the stitch forming mechanism, the innerend of said guide channel opening upwardly to the surface of said bedplate, a guide member for one edge of the fabric and the adjacent edgeof the eyelet tape, a guide member for the opposite edge of the eyelettape, and means in the rear of said stitch forming mechanism forengaging said carrier tape to feed the same and for engaging with andfeeding the work.

JOHN F. HAND.

